Newport, Rhode Island is awash in opulence, from its many famous mansions to its breathtaking beaches and coast. By, Margaret Loftus
Ever since wealthy industrialists began building their summer “cottages” along its shoreline in the 19th century, Newport has been synonymous with R&R. Most of the Gilded Age mansions are museums now, but the good life is still alive and well-and only an hour-and-a-half drive from the North Shore.
Stay Built in 1873 for New York Congressman John Winthrop Chanler and his wife, Margaret Astor Ward, The Chanler at Cliff Walk hearkens back to the graciousness of the town’s golden era, with its manicured gardens and lawn overlooking the Atlantic. Each of the 20 guest rooms features a unique decor theme inspired by history-the ornate Louis XVI room is accented by hand-painted leaf and ribbon designs copied from a Normandy chateau-or the natural beauty of the coast, like the Block Island ocean villa, with its washed green and amber palette, wainscoting, and private courtyard meant to evoke a cottage-like feel. 117 Memorial Blvd., 866-793-5664, thechanler.com. While the Chanler has on-call car service, gratis, to zip you the mile into downtown, Vanderbilt Hall is half a block away from the action on Thames Street. The luxe inn originally served as a residence for Alfred Gwynne Vanderbilt more than 100 years ago. Several multi-million-dollar renovations later, the mansion has been transformed into 33 guest rooms elegantly appointed with Italian linens and cashmere throws, including a newly restored 1,000-square-foot suite. Escape the bustle of town in the hotel’s spa, indoor and outdoor swimming pools, and sauna and steam rooms on a rooftop deck. 41 Mary St., 888-826-4255, vanderbilthall.com.
Eat Chef Thomas Duffy at The Chanler’s Spiced Pear has the magic touch when it comes to local seafood, filling delicate ravioli with lobster and ricotta and show- casing diver scallops with jumbo gulf shrimp atop a crispy risotto cake. Monty’s at Vanderbilt Hall serves gastro pub-inspired fare, like sauteed Berkshire pork loin with arancini, apple gelee, and Calvados sauce, in a cozy fireside setting. For al fresco dining with panoramic views of Narragansett Bay, head to the Mooring Seafood Kitchen & Bar, which sources much of its seafood and produce locally. Seafood is the star here. Don’t miss the scallop chowder and “bag of doughnuts”-lobster, crab, and shrimp fritters with chipotle-maple aioli. Sayer’s Wharf, 401-846-2260, mooringrestaurant.com.
See Beginning in the Chanler’s backyard, the Cliff Walk is a 3.5-mile scenic walkway that traces the coastline past some of Newport’s most famous estates. cliffwalk.com. For a closer look, tour one or more of the 11 Newport Mansions run by the Preservation Society of Newport County, from Rosecliff, modeled after the Grand Trianon in Versailles, to the Breakers, an Italian Renaissance palazzo built by the Vanderbilt Family. 401-817-1000, newportmansions.org. Save time for a peek at Rough Point, one of a handful of grand homes of tobacco heiress Doris Duke that served as repositories for her enormous collection of fine art, furnishings, and antiques that she acquired from around the world. 401-847-8344, newportrestoration.org.