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  Surrounded by lush mountains, dotted with noble villas, and ringed with picturesque tiny towns, Italy’s Lake Como, as I discovered on a recent, first visit, lives up to all the hype. The pewter-blue water shimmers by day and glows at night. The air feels fresh and cool. And the shoreline towns are unspoiled, despite the area’s popularity. For centuries, Italian aristocrats, royals, and artists flocked to the shores of this long, leggy lake, shaped like a headless running frog, to relax and recharge at their palatial estates. While many of these villas remain private—actor George Clooney owns one—several ha
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