In Israel, they measure history in millennia, not in centuries. “This is just a baby wall,” says Yehuda Ben Baruch, senior tour guide with Routes Travel, gesturing toward the thick edifice surrounding the Old City of Jerusalem. “I promise later to show you a 3,000-year-old wall.”
Indeed, wandering through the Old City, one is cast back in time, gaining a keen and almost immediate understanding of diplomacy necessary for maintaining peace in a tiny area –little more than a third of a square mile—with extraordinary religious significance for Muslims, Jews, and Christians.
Baruch is the ideal companion f
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