It’s sadly rare to find cheese fondue on a menu these days. The dish of gooey Gruyère, spiked with cherry brandy and served with accoutrements for dipping, seems to have fallen out of favor, even in an age in which shared plates are trendy.
But Brenden Crocker doesn’t care. At his new Manchester-by-the-Sea restaurant Black Arrow, the cheese fondue calls out from a cozy appetizer menu that includes house-made potato chips and fish cakes. Accompanied by some Granny Smith apples, bread made in-house from a sourdough starter Crocker has nursed for years, and some crispy potatoes, it is satisfying and complex.
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