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The foliage in the Adirondacks is at its peak during the first week in October. While I was holding onto the last warm days of the season in Boston, autumn already had a tight grip on upstate New York—and the Adirondacks wear fall well. At Lake Kora, the Adirondacks stretch in all directions for hundreds of miles. I had left behind the bustle of Boston hours ago, and now the stillness here was deafening. A loon called across the glassy lake, and the eerie sound rattled straight through me. Now this was seclusion.  I flew out of Logan on Cape Air, landing at Saranac Lake on a drizzly afternoon. Lake Kora is open yearly from July 1 to
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