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  Pick any one of the 60 different bourbons behind the bar at Elm Square Oyster Co. in Andover, and bar manager Colin Welch can tell you the story behind it. Some are aged in sherry or port casks, one has traveled the world in a container ship, most are from small producers—and many are not from Kentucky. Contrary to popular belief, bourbon, an American whiskey that must be made from 51 percent corn, doesn’t have to be from the South, Welch says. Producers right here in Massachusetts, in upstate New York, and all over the country are crafting thoughtful small-batch takes on the spirit.  “I try to find the rar
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