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It takes a bit of nerve to put fried clams on the menu at a brand-new eatery in Essex that is sandwiched between Village Restaurant and the double threat of Woodman’s and J.T. Farnham’s, all three with generations of fierce adherents for that very dish. But chef Mario Capone and his staff are well up to the challenge, bringing the same care to the upscale pub food at Great Marsh Brewing Co. that is on display at the much-loved Bancroft restaurants Capone also oversees. Their fried clams are plump and sweet, dipped in a house-secret blend of flour and seasonings and then burnished to a crispy bronze hue.  The generous portion, serv
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