Food has been central to Salem’s identity for centuries, from its pre-colonial name, Naumkeag, meaning “fishing place,” to the 18th-century spice trade that helped make the city a wealthy international trading port. So it’s only fitting that food will be an integral part of Salem’s 400th anniversary celebrations this summer with “Food at 400+” a 12-day festival presented by Salem Food Tours that celebrates Salem’s culinary past, present, and future.
“Food brings people together,” says Salem Mayor Dominick Pangallo. “We share our stories and memories through meals that we share with one another. It’s also reflected in our history as a place.”
Photo by Jared Charney
Food at 400+ is the brainchild and labor of love of Karen Scalia, founder and owner of Salem Food Tours, which has been guiding visitors and locals through the city’s food scene and celebrating local chefs and makers since 2012.
“It’s a festival that looks at Salem history through the lens of food, fishing, farming, trade, et cetera,” Scalia said.
Running June 11-22, Food at 400+ is a wide-ranging event that includes free exhibits and talks, historic home open houses, film screenings, ticketed dining and cocktail events, and other culinary happenings across the city.
Throughout the event, visitors to Salem’s menus will offer a taste of the city’s history, when nearly 20 participating restaurants, along with Far From the Tree, Deacon Giles Distillery, and Couch Dog Brewing, add historically inspired food and cocktail specials to their offerings.
“I’m buoyed by the excitement and how many restaurants want to participate, the chefs’ creativity, and the history they’re looking at to help them get inspired for their dishes,” Scalia says.
One of those restaurants is Ledger, a beloved spot that’s already known for leaning into the past, from its menu inspired by 19th-century New England cuisine to its historic, brick-clad location in the former circa 1818 Salem Savings Bank.
It’s a fitting collaboration, since Ledger’s chef, James Beard Foundation-nominated Daniel Gursha, is “super nerdy for all those old recipes,” says general manager Kelsey Tenore.
“Ledger is inspired by the building that we’re housed in,” Tenore said, noting that the name nods to its banking past. “We love the history and we’re in the downtown historic district. Any way we can participate in talking about history is great.”
Salem’s celebration of all things food will extend beyond restaurants, too. Cinema Salem is hosting three food-themed films, while Old Town Hall will host a free, family-friendly exhibit running the duration of the event, along with free lectures and talks.
Several of Salem’s historic homes will open their doors for free tours and special exhibits June 13-14, with free rides between locations from the Salem Trolley. Participants can pick up a wristband for that event at Old Town Hall.
“Those houses will each have a different exhibit or thing they’re going to share through that lens of fishing, food, farm, culinary, or hospitality,” Scalia says.
The festivities will also stretch across the pond with a celebration of Salem’s relationship with its newly established sister city, East Budleigh, U.K., the birthplace of Salem’s founder, Roger Conant.
“I was really inspired by the fact that Roger Conant’s legacy was that of a peacemaker and a community builder,” Scalia said.
The program’s centerpiece is an appearance by celebrity chef and Food Network star Scott Conant, a13th-generation direct descendant of Roger Conant. “An Evening with Scott Conant” will include a stage interview, audience Q&A, and even a take-home treat for those in attendance for the event, happening June 13 at the Sophia Gordon Performing Arts Center at Salem State University.
“Salem isn’t just a city I’m visiting,” Conant said in a statement. “It’s where my family’s American story began. Taking part in this 400th anniversary, in the place Roger Conant first established, is deeply personal. I’m honored to share that connection through food.”
While this summer’s festivities focus on Salem’s quadricentennial, a key element of the celebration lies in the plus sign that follows the number 400 in its name, acknowledging the city’s rich history before its colonial founding along with the promise of its future.
“Our Salem 400+ celebrations are about recognizing the legacy in the past, but also who we are today and the things that make our community so special, and our food scene is certainly one of those,” says Mayor Pangallo.
For move information, visit Food At 400+