Bees buzz among yellow flowers alongside the hiking trail leading to the Skaftafellsjökull glacier, located in a huge national park in southeastern Iceland. The glacier is visible a couple hundred yards ahead of us, beyond a small black lagoon left behind as the tongue receded up the mountain. I wonder how long it’s been since the spot where I’m standing was covered with ice.
Iceland is having a moment as it melts. Tourism picked up here after the 2008 financial crash, and the country of 300,000 now attracts around 2 million visitors a year. At the park’s visitor center, a series of photographs shows how glaciers here have been shri
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