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When it comes to Italian food, everything is a debate—especially in Gloucester, where roots in the boot run deep. Cheese with a seafood pasta? Absolutely not…well, maybe a touch of pecorino. Ricotta in your lasagna? Maybe, maybe not, depending on what your nonna did or what part of Italy you are from. Sugo or gravy? Absolutely sugo, says Danielle Glantz, owner and pasta maker at Pastaio Via Corta in Gloucester, who explains that gravy is the word Italian immigrants started to use for meat sauce, in the hopes of fitting in with their new homeland. “Once you understand the history, then you can form an opinion,” Glantz says. And she
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