Growing up in Newburyport, Appleton Farms’ cheese maker Anna Cantelmo explains food was never a focus in her household. In fact, she describes it as almost an annoyance. It was more about fast and easy than artisanal and fresh—there were more important things to do than worry about where food came from. “It’s funny, both my brother and I now have careers that center on food—where it’s from and how it’s made,” she says. (Her brother David Coman-Hindy is a vegan activist and the executive director for the Humane League, a national farm animal protection nonprofit.)
It wasn’t until Cantelm
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