Essex has an undeniably quaint appeal. Nestled against a river running through a scenic salt marsh, it is dotted with shingled houses, small shops, and fields in which horses happily graze. Fewer than 4,000 people live in the town. While Essex may be a small town, however, it has an outsized appeal for anyone interested in art, design, antiques, and history.
“The neighborhoods are full of hidden gems,” says KD Montgomery, executive director of the Essex Historical Society and Shipbuilding Museum. “This place is really rich with history and with stories, and there’s a lot more than meets the eye.” First settled by Europeans in 1634, Essex was, from its early days, a hub for shipbuilding in the region. By the 1850s, more than 50 vessels a year were launching from the town’s shipyards. Essex’s shipbuilders constructed most of the schooners in Gloucester’s historic fishing fleet. Centuries later, the shipbuilders’ craftsmanship, economy, respect for materials, and connection with the natural world still resonate through life in modern-day Essex, Montgomery says.
This dynamic is perhaps most apparent at the shipbuilding museum itself, where conventional museum displays are complemented by the working shipyard, where craftsmen use historic techniques to build new vessels and do repairs on existing ships. The organization takes seriously its role as an anchor of Essex’s cultural scene, hosting classes, workshops, and community celebrations in the shipyard. “We are keeping the tools and the traditions and really the cultural heritage of the area alive,” Montgomery says.
Antiques and vintage finds have also long been a major part of the business scene in Essex. Shops range from the crowded treasure hunt of Howard’s Flying Dragon to the high-end elegance of Perim Lang Antiques, with lots of stops in between. At Andrew Spindler Antiques and Design, a curated selection of quirky and whimsical items rub elbows with more traditionally serious antiques, creating a compelling shopping experience. “I offer a highly personal, eclectic, design-driven collection of uncommon vintage and antique items,” Spindler says. “The shop is also very welcoming, a place where people connect with beautiful objects and also one where people connect with one another.”
Throughout town, new inspiration mixes gracefully with the traditional. Across the street from Spindler’s shop, We Dream in Colour features the owner’s strikingly bold jewelry designs alongside a unique and playful collection of vintage and new clothing, home accessories, and gifts. Up the road, the White Barn sells a mix of carefully vetted consignment pieces, new home decor, and art by local creators from a post-and-beam barn with soaring ceilings that inevitably make new visitors stop to gawk for a moment, says owner Priscilla Moody. “They walk in the door and they look up and just say ‘Whoa,’” Moody laughs.
The stunning natural beauty of Essex also inspires visitors. It is not uncommon to see plein air artists working at easels on the roadside as they attempt to capture a particularly beautiful moment on the Great Marsh, a 25,000-acre wetland that stretches from New Hampshire down to Cape Ann. The Essex County Greenbelt Association merges the community’s love of art, history, and nature with its annual Art in the Barn show, scheduled this year for June 12 and 13. The juried event showcases the work of some 120 local artists, many of whom reflect the heritage and beauty of the region in their work. Before and after the event, the property is still a worthy destination, offering walking paths that allow visitors to be surrounded and awestruck by the immensity of the marsh.
The town also offers a surprisingly robust dining scene. Locals have debated for decades whether Woodman’s or J.T. Farnham’s is the superior destination for fried seafood. CK Pearl serves up elevated New England fare with unbeatable views, and Downriver Ice Cream is the ideal destination for dessert. As spring flowers begin to bloom and green sweeps through the marsh, Essex becomes a particularly lovely destination, locals say. But, then again, summer’s warmth and the bright colors of fall also have their charms. “It really is spectacular. You can’t go wrong,” says Montgomery. “From May through November it’s worth coming any day of the week.”
DISCOVER
Andrew Spindler Antiques and Design
A compelling combination of whimsy and tradition makes this a particularly welcoming stop.
Perim Lang Antiques
Carefully selected fine American, English, and European antiques in a beautifully restored church.
We Dream in Colour
Browse bold jewelry designed by the shop owners and a curated collection of botanically inspired gifts and decor.
The White Barn
This rustically elegant barn houses a selection of new and old decor, art, and furnishings
Howard’s Flying Dragon
A treasure hunt of a shop where visitors can dig up exciting and sometimes quirky vintage finds
EXPERIENCE
Wheelworks Pottery
A destination for functional, hand-thrown pottery that will add a unique touch to your collection of housewares.
facebook.com/WheelworksPottery
Essex Shipbuilding Museum
Get an up-close look at traditional shipbuilding in this working boatyard that still uses historical techniques.
Allyn Cox Reservation
A network of trails offers stunning marsh views, wildlife viewing, and a perfect spot to launch for a paddle through the wetlands.
ecga.org/property/allyn-cox-reservation
Cogswell’s Grant
A treasure trove of American folk art housed in a Colonial-era farmhouse
TASTE
Woodman’s
The inventor of the fried clam, this seafood shack also excels at chowder, fish and chips, and lobster.
J.T. Farnham’s
Make your own judgment about which clam shack offers the superior fare by sampling the fired fish and lobster bisque here as well.
CK Pearl
Traditional New England fare with eclectic twists, creative cocktails, and a warm, welcoming atmosphere.
Downriver Ice Cream
Enjoy some of the area’s best ice cream in indulgent flavors while taking in scenic river views.