At Tartine Kitchen & Eatery, light fare gets a European flair.
Quiche pretty much always starts the same way: cream or milk, eggs, maybe cheese or some other filling, and a crust. But somehow, in the hands of Monika Simon, the classic dense custard is transformed—it becomes taller, lighter, the top is a beautiful burnished color…it seems European. Or more specifically, Belgian.
Simon, a self-taught cook, grew up overseas, with an American mother and a Belgian father. When she and her husband, Alexandre Simon, a Belgian native whose family was in the restaurant business, moved to the North Shore a few years back, they dreamed of opening a restaurant that reflects the way Belgians
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