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The Magazine

Northshore October 2025
Consider carefully the components on any restaurant dish, and you might notice far more than initially meets the eye—in terms of technique, plating, and care. Certainly, that is the case with the Coffee & Cacao-Crusted Venison Loin at Brown Square Bistro in Ipswich. The farm-raised venison is tender and flavorful, standing on the plate in thick slices, held in place with a wood-fire-roasted chestnut purée. But, honestly, that is just the beginning of this earthy dish. For between the slices of venison stands a rectangle of sweet potato pavé. Look closely: Each piece is composed of impossibly thin slices pressed together. To cre
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