At Prides Osteria, you will find a menu comprised of food unquestionably made from the heart and undoubtedly from the hands of a passionate, talented chef. Bravo to Executive Chef Paolo Laboa, who comes to cook for us in Beverly after leading San Francisco’s highly acclaimed Farina, where he put the authentic, indigenous cooking of his native Genoa, Italy, on the culinary map.
Prides Osteria, which is owned by Michael Magner, known by most for his Prides Deli & Pizzeria of Beverly, has menu offerings that focus on homemade, high-quality, and local seasonal ingredients. For example, the antipasto selection of perfectly seared scallops arrives next to a pool of delectable Parmesan cream flavored with a hint of saffron. The focaccia with prosciutto and burrata—a luxuriously creamy-centered, Italian-style cheese—provides dramatic contrast in flavor and texture. Both are wildly delicious.
Next, Misticanza di Campo, a refreshing salad of seasonal garden-fresh greens that are expertly flavored with shaved Parmesan, Ligurian olive oil, and aged balsamic vinegar.
Do not miss the ethereal Mandilli di Seta al Vero Pesto Genovese, comprised of impossibly thin and silky housemade pasta tossed in Chef Laboa’s renowned light, creamy pesto, winner of the 2008 World Pesto Championship in Genoa, Italy, and rightly so. The ravioli dish, heartier and more deeply flavored, is stuffed with local beef, pork, and sausage and served in a rich red sauce. Each pasta dish is a dramatic and memorable expression of the Italian cook’s art of marrying each different pasta with a perfectly paired sauce.
The main course of pan-roasted ribeye, fragrant with rosemary, sage, and juniper berries, is served with a natural pan-sauce reduction and roasted cauliflower with crunchy Maldon salt. The beef is sweet and tender; the sauce, packed with vivid flavors.
The whole local perch is baked in a parchment pouch with white wine, potatoes, tomatoes, olives, and pine nuts. The heady aromas and bold tastes enliven the flavor of an otherwise mild fish.
Housemade canola and apple strudel conclude this impressive feast. Each is prepared expertly and imaginatively, and the premium-quality ingredients from which they are made are evident in every bite.
To owner Michael Magner, our gratitude for the vision to create Prides Osteria. To chef Paolo Laboa, all we can say is thank you for changing coasts.
Chef: Paolo Laboa. Appetizers: Capasanti con salsa al parmigiano e zefferano ($14), Gonfetti con prosciutto di Parma e burrata pugliese ($16). Salad: Misticanza di campo ($10). Pasta: Mandilli di seta al vero pesto Genovese ($20), Ravioli nel loro tocco ($22). Main Course: Tagliata di manzo alle erbe con cavolfiori rosticciati ($28.00), Garibaldi in carta Pergamena alla Ligure ($22). Dessert: Cannoli ($8), apple strudel ($8). Location: 240 Rantoul Street, Beverly, 978-969-0083