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Back in March, when restaurants were abruptly shut down in the midst of the public health crisis, Jay Murray, executive chef at Ellis Square Social in Beverly, knew he needed to make a change. With a menu that consisted primarily of small plates of delicate, pretty food, offering it as takeout was just not in the cards. “Our old concept was very precise and labor-intensive, and we wouldn’t have been able to execute it properly,” Murray says. “It simply wouldn’t have translated to in-home dining.” Murray’s solution was a complete flip— Ellis Square is now a barbecue joint, with classics like ribs, pulled pork, and shrimp and
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