A wood-fired grill is a beast to cook on. It can shift from smoking hot to cold in just a few seconds’ time. The size of the logs, the way the air flows around the wood, even the weather all have an effect on the way it cooks. Items can go from raw to charred in seconds. And the fire must be fed continuously.
For Daniel Gursha, executive chef, it’s been trial by fire quite literally as he develops a relationship with the massive cast iron grill that is a centerpiece of Ledger in Salem. Marrying modern expectations of perfect food in a high-end restaurant with such a primal cooking method is a continual challenge
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