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Eric Peavey likes to make Market Square Bakehouse’s fantastically indulgent Queen rolls in the wee hours of the morning, when no one is around, because it makes a terrible mess. “As I roll out the dough, sugar just flies everywhere,” says Peavey, who co-owns the Amesbury bakery-cafe? with Tanya Tzitzon. “I don’t even measure—I just keep dumping sugar on.” The Queen is the bakery’s nickname for a kouignamann, a classic French laminated pastry. Shaped like a muffin with a pointy crown, the Queen’s size belies its complexity—the dough is comprised of 90 to 100 layers. Crisp and flake
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