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Northshore October 2025
On the coldest week of the year, I walked into the steamy-windowed Damgeuda, on Haverhill’s Washington Street. Loosely translated from Korean, damgeuda means to immerse. Other translations: to bathe; to steep; to pickle. Anyone even remotely familiar with the food of South Korea might find this term apt. The national dish of Korea is kimchi, a traditional banchan—or side dish—made from pickled Napa cabbage, or cucumber, or daikon radish. The fermented vegetables, mixed with salt, ginger, gochugaru, garlic, and shrimp paste, are stored in a traditional earthenware onggi for days to weeks until they are ready to eat. At Damgeuda, which
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