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It’s not quite six on a Tuesday night, and Sarma, the Middle Eastern-inflected restaurant in Somerville, is already packed. Sarma is the brainchild of Cassie Piuma, a James Beard Award–nominated chef who grew up in Duxbury. More than a decade later, the enthusiasm for the restaurant—a spacious, industrial spot in Winter Hill—has not waned. I’ve come equipped with both a reservation and an appetite. Duck Confit The restaurant’s savory menu is divided into eight sections: ekmek, where guests will find appetizer breads; shmear, a category devoted to dips and spoonable apps; snacks, or small plates like pork ribs and Tunisian ta
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