The menu of steaks at Mooo…., the new restaurant in Burlington, stretches across the globe from Australia to Kansas, with stops in Japan and California. So the connoisseur can explore the many differences between Wagyu sirloin from a grass-fed steer raised in Rangers Valley, Australia, and a cosseted cow raised in the Kagoshima Prefecture of Japan, or the nuances between California ribeye and dry-aged rib-eye from Kansas.
The Kansas rib-eye, dry-aged for 90 days, has an intense, meatier flavor than a classic cut. With a bit more chew, it brings to mind the Wild West. It is perfectly delicious–exactly what you’d expect from chef Jamie Mammano, who has drawn praise over more than a decade for the original Beacon Hill location of his modern steakhouse.
Whether you are an expert who understands the difference between heartland beef and a West Coast cut, or a steak-curious novice, Mooo…. is exactly the right place. Servers have been trained by top butchers and have likely tried every cut, meaning they are incredibly well versed in how the steaks differ, and can explain everything from the process of dry-aging to the tenderness of each filet and how marbling affects both flavor and texture.
You could easily, and deliciously, enjoy beef for every course, starting with the Prime Sirloin Tartare, which arrives under a cloche filled with apple wood smoke to enhance the taste of the tender morsels. It’s served with a quail egg and topped with an aioli that we’d suggest blending in just a bit at a time, to let the steak shine through. Or depart from the classic steakhouse menu with a truly unique meaty appetizer—the Japanese Wagyu Beef Dumplings, which bring unexpected Asian flavors to the table. To craft these, Wagyu A-5 beef is ground in-house, then mixed with thyme and caramelized onions and hand pressed into dumpling wrappers. Steamed and served in a soy-ginger brodo, it invites you to spoon the sauce over the dumplings.
It’s not all about the beef, though. Mooo… offers the classic wedge salad, upgraded with peeled grape tomatoes, Maytag blue cheese and bacon—and when you say you are sharing, they will split it in the kitchen. Or try the light bright Seabass Ceviche, dressed with a citrus vinaigrette, cucumber, and coriander, with the slightest hit of chilies contributing a subtle heat.
For mains, fish and chicken round out the steak menu, including a delicious Pan-Roasted Branzino, served with a caper and lemon brown butter sauce, broccolini, and crispy new potatoes.
No matter what you choose for your main, sides are a must. Double down on potatoes with the Mooo.... Side Flight, which includes both whipped Yukon gold potatoes and truffled parmesan fries, along with creamed spinach and exotic mushrooms. Or go for the carrot side. Sized for a steakhouse, it’s two large carrots roasted whole with honey from the seven hives on the restaurant’s roof.
Sommelier Micheal Grealey is up to the task of pairing a perfect wine with whatever you order. Even if you want a steak and your dinner companion goes with fish, trust Grealey to identify something on the 600-bottle wine list that will suit. Staff also gets weekly training on the wines, so diners are always in good hands.
The menu at Mooo… Burlington is nearly the same as its sister restaurant in Boston—and the décor also echos the urban vibe of the sleek Beacon Hill counterpart, so if you’re expecting rustic Tuscan steakhouse L’Andana—Mammano’s former restaurant in this location—you are in for a bit of a surprise. The weathered wooden walls and chandeliers made from old wine barrels have been replaced by modern black wood paneling and metal chandeliers. The facility has also added three light-filled, buttoned-up private dining rooms to accommodate everything from elegant weddings and parties to dinners for top executives.
Speaking of top executives, the cocktail list is impressive, highlighted by the stylish CEO Manhattan—deep dark and delicious with Michter’s Small Batch US1 Kentucky Straight Bourbon, two kinds of Amaro, and bitters.
Save room for dessert—executive pastry chef Michelle LeBlanc crafts an impressive roster of offerings, from seasonal tarts to sorbet, and even Milk & Cookies—four large, melty chocolate chip cookies, served with a glass of sweet, creamy horchata—a house-made plant-based milk. Even if you can resist that luscious dessert menu, every check arrives with adorable house-made mallomars—a graham cracker base, topped with marshmallow and dipped in chocolate —that guarantee a sweet ending.
86 Cambridge St., Burlington, 781-270-0100, mooorestaurant.com/about/burlington