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On an unseasonably warm day this past January, my husband and I walked into the 50-seat Rim-Lay, a relatively new Thai restaurant in Gloucester in a nondescript strip mall across the street from some of the city’s more recognizable landmarks (Oak & Ember, for instance, and, diagonally, the Beauport Hotel). It was early—just 11:30 in the morning on a Thursday—and yet we were not the first (or even second) table to be seated. Rim-Lay had opened just three months before, in mid-October, the joint vision of three Thai restaurant veterans— Pattama Paengkaew, Mahanop Rueangrotnopphakhun, and Khachain Muangruen—who hail from all over T
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