For the sushi lover, we offer four must-try restaurants north of Boston, each of which offers the freshest fish, thoughtful flavors, and attention to every delicious detail.
Karma Asian Fusion, Burlington
I had forgotten all about Ruby Foo’s, until Iverson Guo, the head chef, master sushi chef, and owner of Karma Asian Fusion, in Burlington reminds me by phone. It was a spectacular, gleaming space that opened in Times Square in 2000, an homage to an earlier, historic restaurant.
Back then, at the turn of the new century, Ruby Foo’s was at the epicenter of Asian Fusion. I went all the time, with family, with friends, with people who wanted to see big and blustery New York. Guo was learning to cook. He was learning to prepare sushi, actually. “I was a young kid, working behind in the kitchen, washing dishes,” he says.
Guo learned the ropes of restaurant work—and sushi-preparation—at Foo’s and then, later, at other restaurants. His dedication to the craft eventually sparked in him creative passion. “My father is a Chinese artist, so I have some artistic background,” Guo says. He translated this creativity to the kitchen and, in fact, to his plating. By 2006, he was searching for a space to open his own restaurant, and the first iteration of Karma was born.
Fish is sourced, Guo says, from all over the world: top-quality salmon from Scotland, tuna from all over (depending on where it happens to be running), local fish whenever possible, and, naturally, fish delivered from Japan. Among the restaurant’s more creative rolls, Guo recommends the Salmon on Fire, citrus-marinated fish served with crispy-fried shallots and edible flowers. A Kobe roll, too, demonstrates the restaurant’s commitment to quality ingredients. “We use A5 Wagyu ribeye steak,” Guo says, which is among the best in the world.
75 Middlesex Turnpike, Burlington, 781-365-0660, burlington.karmaasianfusion.com
Taku Sushi Bar, Beverly
In Beverly, Jerry Lin, who owns and operates Taku Sushi Bar, is equally committed to serving quality products. He even makes his own tamago, the egg custard so complex in its simplicity that it occupies a great deal of time and thought in the famed sushi film Jiro Dreams of Sushi. “I know a lot of restaurants, they just order frozen tamago, because I know tamago is cheap,” Lin says. “As a chef, if you don’t take the time to make the simple stuff . . . you can’t be too much of a businessman.”
The miso black cod, Lin says, is a must-try. “It often takes 20, 25 minutes,” he says. The Suzuki carpaccio, he adds, is another requisite signature dish. Raw sea bass is topped with shiitake mushrooms, truffle salt, and olive oil. But the rice, Lin says, shouldn’t be overlooked. “It’s the number one key,” he says. “We should always use the best rice.” Taku’s is a blend of two different varieties, combined and seasoned. “If you don’t know how to make a perfect rice, you can’t make a perfect sushi.”
211 Rantoul St., 978-993-7185, Beverly, takusushi.com
Feng Shui, Burlington
At Feng Shui, in Burlington, innovation and fusion define the restaurant’s sushi program. The imminently popular tuna wasabi dumpling showcases the kitchen’s dexterity and creativity, and its willingness to dig into both Japanese and Chinese culture. Open since 2005, Feng Shui is one of the old masters on the North Shore, a sushi favorite that commands a regular crowd. (Other locations include Cohasset, Tyngsboro, Chelmsford, Brighton, Waltham, and Braintree.) The restaurant has, of course, evolved with the times, adding items like the poké bowl to the menu, an entrée filled with vegetables, rice, seaweed salad, and a choice of salmon, hamachi, or tuna.
2200 District Ave., Burlington, 781-365-0918, gofengshui.com/burlington
Maki Sushi Bar & Grill, Peabody
Yes, the maki rolls alone are worth the trip. This Peabody sushi spot has dozens of them, from the conventional to the outright zany (the Buffalo chicken roll, for instance, marries American sensibilities with Japanese technique). The restaurant also serves whip-fresh sushi and sashimi, katsu and teriyaki entrees, noodle soups, and fried rice. If you save room for dessert – the tempura fried Oreos with vanilla ice cream and chocolate sauce are a tempting choice.
43 Main St., Peabody, 978-854-5426, makisushibar.net