You might not even know it’s there. To be fair, I didn’t. Kouzina, which opened in 2022 off of Route 1, in Peabody, is indistinct from the outside. Housed in a small strip plaza, the restaurant is deceiving. Open the door, and it’s a whole other world, filled with decorative ceramic tile, miniature olive trees, and chytrai—terra cotta earthenware used in Greek cooking—hanging in spades above the petite bar.
Kouzina is the second venture from Jimmy and Penny Christopher, who emigrated to Boston from Greece and operated the Brothers Kouzina from 2006 to 2019 (that restaurant was also in Peabody). Those who have traveled, say, to Athens, will be reminded of some of the city’s greatest hits. Although Greek salad appears in two iterations, the more classic version features no lettuce. Dressed simply with olive oil and oregano, it’s a composed plate of barrel-aged feta, tomatoes, red onion, Kalamata olives, cucumbers, and peppers.
Speaking of feta, a sweet and savory appetizer of Feta Psiti sees the iconic cheese wrapped in phyllo dough and then fried until crisp. Topped with honey and sesame seeds, this savory and sweet start to the meal feels particularly Greek—and a particularly important way to start a meal, Greek or otherwise.
The menu is peppered with regional classics, from Moussaka (the Greek take on lasagna, made with eggplant, potato, and a Béchamel) to Spanakopita (flaky spinach pie made with phyllo dough). Keftedes, or meatballs made from ground beef, garlic, mint, and onions, are served with the house version of tzatziki, in this case a thick and rich sauce teeming with garlic and cucumber.
On the entrée side, meats reign, just as they do in Athens. Lamb makes multiple appearances on the menu (shank, simmered lamb, lamb chops). The gyro plate, almost a de rigueur choice, can be ordered with shaved chicken or pork; it comes with grilled pita bread and tzatziki sauce. And, for what it’s worth, those who want a taste but who feel a little less committal can order appetizer-sized portions of some of the entrées (souvlaki skewers, gyros, and grilled lamb “lollipops,” for instance, are all available in appetizer iterations, making it easy to taste through the menu, particularly in larger groups).
I, myself, was unable to decide. I wanted everything—but there is a solution for that problem for diners at Kouzina, too. I went all-in for the Pikilia, a sampler plate designed to feed four-to-six people (the restaurant generously downsized my portion to accommodate a smaller party). For those inclined to order everything, as I so often am, this platter is an excellent representation of the whole menu: two chicken souvlaki, two pork souvlaki, pork and chicken gyro meat, loukaniko Greek sausage, juicy lamb chops, metsovo cheese, French fries, sliced tomato and onion, tzatziki, hummus, spicy feta spread, and grilled pita slices.
It was, in a manner of speaking, a trip to Greece in just under an hour, with plenty of leftovers to spare. (And I was told, by my server, that my own platter, heaping as it was, would have overflowed even more completely, with more skewers, lamb chops, and gyro meat, had I ordered the so-called full portion.)
The Pikilia covered every base, in terms of taste, texture, and savoriness. Although I may have ordinarily been inclined to skip a lunchtime dessert, I was mesmerized by the Galaktoboureko’s description. Back in Greece, I eschewed most desserts, apart from rich yogurt with honey, itself a fine reward. (I ate it mostly for breakfast.)
It’s a semolina custard, buttressed by layers of crisp phyllo dough, and made sweeter by a deep amber honey sauce. Offering the best qualities of pie filling, caramel, and pure semolina, it’s a thing you didn’t know you wanted until it is set before you, until your spoon digs down into its quivering depths. I’m here to tell you that it really is that good. Go there. Eat it. Order a Retsina and drink it in good health; the restaurant has a slim selection of Greek wines, too. And don’t forget, of course, to bring an extra slice home for tomorrow. There is no such thing as regret.