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Northshore October 2025
Chef William Morin is not quite satisfied with the pizza margherita that has just arrived at the table—he thinks the crust doesn’t have enough charred poufs of dough. “I want to see a slightly violent explosion of bubbles and a little more char [on every crust],” says Morin, who is chef de cuisine at Tuscan Kitchen in Salem, New Hampshire. Few others can find fault with the gorgeous pie, wearing its red, white, and green toppings—the colors of the Italian flag—sparingly on the delicate crust, an improbable combination of light, tender, crisp, and chewy all at once. It smells of deep, yeasty fermentation
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